Raligh Restoration Update #1

The last post I made about this winter project was a while ago. Since then I’ve made some great progress. So far I’ve only focused on cleaning up the easy stuff: getting rust off of the wheels, handle bars and neck, and the break and gear leavers. All the grunt work that no one likes doing.

Wheels and Hubs

I started off with the wheels since I figured they would be the easiest. A friend recommended that I use Navel Jelly (Phosphoric Acid), a powerful rust remover. The warning to keep from introducing this stuff directly into surface water was enough to keep me away though since I’m doing this in my basement and can only dispose of stuff down the drain. Instead I took the elbow-grease approach and bought a few packs of green scouring pads and went to work.

For those interested, Phosphoric acid is what makes Coke-a-Cola a good rust remover. When we were kids we’d soak rusty bike parts in coke to loosen up the rust before scrubbing them down. I never knew why it worked so well. Now I know. Read the Wikipedia article above for more things that Coke is good for like decreasing bone density etc.

After about 6 hours of scrubbing, a half dozen scrub pads and a few layers of skin off both of my hands the wheels looked pretty good. I took them both to the new bike shop down the street from me called Mello Velo to have Steve true them and rebuild the hubs (truing wheels isn’t something I’ve gotten into yet). The end result looks pretty good. Here are some before / after shots:

DirtyHub
CleanHub
RimSidebySide
CleanWheels

Probably should have done more of a side-by-side for each hub but I’m learning this as I go. I’m really pumped about how well they turned out.

Headset, Handlebars and Leavers

Next I took apart the headset and removed the fork, neck, handlebars and brake leavers. The headset and handlebars cleaned up super easy. The only hard part was getting into some of the tight spots around the neck. A small stiff wire brush worked OK. The same green scouring pads did the trick on the rest of it:
BarsNeckClean

The shift levers came out well though they are pitted in a few spots. Don’t think there’s much that can be done about this though.
RaleighShiftClean
After cleaning up the levers I put a protective coat of grease on all the metal bits.

The brake leavers and the brakes themselves are aluminum so these were just dull, no rust. I took some Mothers polish to the leavers and they shined up pretty good. Here’s a side by side of the two levers. The one on the left has been polished, the leaver on the right hasn’t been cleaned yet. That’s not the lighting that makes them look like they’re not the same color. After polishing they feel super smooth and got nice and shiny. They’re still pretty beat up in a few spots where the previous owner took a spill or two but they look much better.
BrakeLeverClean

I also popped out the cups and bearings for the headset. They were way beyond repair as expected so I’ve got a new set on order. I got a chance to use my headset race remover for the intended purpose finally. I bought it for popping pressed bearings out of the bottom bracket on my BMX bikes. Looks like they work just as well on headsets.

Taking a look at the frame without the headset gives a good indication that things are headed in the right direction:
BareHead

I haven’t done anything to the front fork or the front brakes yet. The brakes are aluminum so they’ll get the same treatment as the levers. I don’t think the fork needs anything beyond some soap and water. There’s a good bit of paint missing but it’s doesn’t look bad, just well used / loved. That’s right, if your bike doesn’t have a few scratches you obviously don’t love it. When I get bored maybe I’ll paint it but that’s a long way off.

Here’s another fun one: The complete set of tools and parts. Notice the Park Tools bottle opener. No tool box is complete without it.
HeadsetBarsParts

More to come soon.

Winter Project: Raleigh

Two weeks ago I took a few hours to start in on my “winter project”. In Syracuse it’s always good to have a project lined up for the winter months, when the passing of days can sometimes only be measured by the shift from a dark gray to a lighter shade and back (not like we’ve had much snow so far though).

In a previous post I put up some pictures of my BMX but I’m getting pretty old (one ankle surgery is enough) and as much as I love that bike I need something I can ride without being tempted to do tricks that inevitably cause swelling … I told you I’m getting old. Enter the winter project:

Raleigh Before

That’s right. A Raleigh road bike probably from back in the 80’s. I’m completely guessing at the age of the bike but I decided it’s gotta be pretty old when I tore off the tires I found it had cloth rim strips!

cloth rim-stip dating a bike is much like carbon dating a fossil, just not as accurate

It’s actually a pretty big frame. Standing over it I’m just clear of the top tube so it’s about 3 times the size of my BMX. It’s gona take some getting used to once it’s ridable … but let’s not get ahead of ourselves. I’ve still gotta clean close to 20 years of basement-induced corrosion off of the steel. It’s in pretty rough shape. From the amount of crap on the headset / neck / handlebars you get a feeling for how bad it is.

Neck Left
Neck Right

They almost look fuzzy in the photos with all of the crap that’s on them. There’s still a few spots that look really nice though. This is what’s gona get me through the job:

Headset Stamp

That’s pretty sharp. So what follows here are some “before” photos. I’ll post “after” photos as I progress through the clean up effort. I’ve already cleaned up one wheel so I’ll post photos once I’ve finished the second one. Brakes, derailers and anything with cables or bearings are a bit scary though.

Ok on to the pictures:
FrontChainWheel
FrontDerailerDown
CrankLeft
RearDerailer
FrontBrake
RearBreakRight
NeckFront
DownTubeStamp

New Macneil Cranks

My bike spent the better part of the summer down in the basement. I bought a pair of Demolition Medial cranks for it last summer and rode on them for a while but they were never right. The threads were machined a bit funny which made getting a puller on difficult. The face on the crank arm where the chain wheel attached was a bit crooked too. I didn’t notice the later defect till it had ruined a great HTP 25T chain wheel and broke a chain. Here’s the culprit:

DemolitionCrankarm

Either way I got pissed and took the whole bottom bracket apart then left it sitting on the stand for a few months. The summer was super busy so I kept putting it off but eventually I couldn’t take the sad sight of it any longer:

Bike with no Bearings

I picked up a set of Macneil Conjoined cranks with bearings to match the 19mm spindle. The Macneil hubs I’m running now are great so I figured I’d make a safe bet and give their cranks a go. Paid off so far:

Macneil Conjoined Crank Arm

I still can’t figure out why all of the threads are painted. I didn’t take a picture of the threads for the pedals but they were painted a few millimeters deep like the opening for the spindle. Likely it’s just cheaper to make them that way but it makes the first installation a pain.

So now that all the parts were together, next was pressing the bottom bracket. With the right tools this doesn’t take much effort. At one point I had made a cup press from a long threaded bolt with washers and nuts at each end. It did the trick but eventually I bought the Park Tools equivalent. It’s pretty much the same thing but with handles on each end coated in blue plastic with “Park Tools” stamped on it (I’m guessing that’s why they cost $60, not worth it!):

Cartridge bearings and spacer lined up on press.

This is the whole bottom bracket kit lined up on the cup press. Crappy thing about this press is that the handles can’t clear the frames chain stay completely so you end up with about 2 millimeters of bearing stuck out when the press can’t be turned any further:

Press Clearance
Not pressed completely

That’s why we keep a stack of extra washers around. Stack these on either end of the cup press between the plates and you’ll get enough clearance to press the bearings flush:

washers to the rescue
bearings pressed flush

Once the bearings are pressed it’s just a matter of putting the new spindle in and fitting the cranks on with a chain wheel. It’s always a pain to get the spacers right so that the cranks clear the chain stays and the chain line is straight. I’m pretty anal about this so I always end up taking the drive side crank arm off and putting it back on a few times. It’s a curse. In the end when it’s all back together it looks something like this:

CranksComplete

I’m pretty happy with the Conjoined cranks so far. I’ve been riding on them for a few weeks now and they’re as solid as any cranks I’ve had in the past. I wouldn’t consider this much of a stress test though since I pretty much just roll around and try to keep from hurting myself so YMMV.

I’m still pretty pissed about losing that 25T chain wheel caus of the Demolition cranks being crappy. I picked it up at an Easter Boarder shop out in Massachusetts. There’s this guy out there that machines them himself under the name “Home Town Products”. Last time I was out that way he said he wasn’t making them anymore so that’s a loss.

In the background of the first picture you can see a yellow road bike frame sitting on my basement floor. That’s a my winter project. It spent the past year+ sitting outside on a sort-of covered porch so it’s in need of some rehab. More on this later.